More than 130 floats and 9,500 people participated in the procession, which began as a protest march in 1978 by homosexual and transsexual men and women and has flourished into one of the world’s largest and most flamboyant gay pride events.

“I am totally in my element,” said a transsexual who identified herself as Gummi Cat. “This is my first year being in the parade and I am absolutely loving it,” she said from a carriage pulled by a man dressed in little more than a black leather harness.

The parade kicked off with Olympic gold medal diver Matthew Mitcham, who stood atop the first float surrounded by male dancers dressed in Speedos and carrying scorecards.

Lifeguards, cheerleaders, nurses and sports teams strutted and spun to their floats’ music. Banks, schools and churches were represented, as were the Australian Federal Police, the Defense Department and state firefighters. All of the marchers, whether flamboyant in feathers and high heels or wearing their official work uniforms, were grinning ear-to-ear as they waved to the crowd.

Spectators waited for up to six hours for prime viewing spots along the 1.5-mile (2.4-kilometer) route of the 31st annual parade. Many were packed 10 rows thick along the sidewalk along the main thoroughfare Oxford Street, which was lined with metal barricades and manned by police and parade officials.

“I’m blown away. It’s been amazing,” said 75-year-old Peg Low, who waved a rainbow flag next to a barricade near the front of the parade route and attracted hugs from a few brightly dressed and heavily eyelashed marchers.

Low came from Queensland state to attend the parade in memory of her son, Stephen, who died of AIDS 15 years ago.

“I’m so happy because all our gay friends made this work, created something so wonderful,” the white-haired woman said.

American TV personality Joan Rivers, in town for her one-woman comedy show, waved from atop a truck. Another float was dedicated to slain U.S. gay rights activist Harvey Milk, the subject of a movie last year starring Sean Penn, who won an Oscar for his role.

This year’s parade theme was “Nations United,” a tribute to homosexuals around the world, particularly in countries where they cannot live openly.

In Australia last year, lawmakers passed legislation giving homosexual couples the same rights as heterosexuals, though they have not legalized same-sex marriages.

However, if you’ve “been there, done that,” or are looking for a different kind of Aussie adventure, head south, and take a chance on the States of Victoria and Tasmania.

AUSTRALIA’S “SECOND CITY”

If Sydney is Marsha, Melbourne is Jan (but we all know the later was really the cool Brady girl, right?).

Women at a street festival. All photos are by Michael Hammet.

Australia’s “second city” is expected to steal the spotlight from its big sister when it becomes the country’s most populous city within the next 20 years. It is already considered by many to be the arts and culture center of the country.

It’s an urban hub with cool clubs, top restaurants, historic architecture, museums, and fantastic shopping. The locals are so friendly I felt like Brad Pitt walking the streets with all the smiles and g’days (take a shot every time you hear “no worries” and you’ll be drunk in about five minutes).

Oh, and a river runs through it.

Since it’s birth in the mid-1800s, Melbourne has been growing up along the edge of the Yarra River. Early city planners designed within a central corridor as a way to curb future sprawl, so everything is just a short walk or tram ride away.

“They were way ahead of their time,” according to Dennis Newcombe, a phoenix-based urban planner.

I preferred the Yarra Tram system to a cab (the mostly foreign cabbies didn’t seem to know their way around town). Every bit of space is maximized.

This might explain the unique use of the city’s lanes – the alleys behind the main streets (with names like AC/DC Lane), lined with café tables, packed with people, and leading to the entrances of basement pubs, restaurants (Robot Sushi was a cool discovery) and cozy cafes.

At night, when the main streets are empty, the lanes are hopping. There also are tiny parks throughout town, called “green wedges,” that infuse nature into the cement and brick urban center.

CHECKING IN

I set my bags down at Hotel Lindrum – a cool boutique accommodation within a circa-1900 Romanesque Revival building, once owned by a family of tea merchants. Hotel rep Damian Hill says, “We’re in the center of Melbourne – so everything is just 20-minutes away.”

The space feels more like a home than a hotel, with modern finishes and warm colors complimenting the building’s original bricks and beams. There’s a professional pool table (from its days as a pool hall) and a pillow menu for the perfect night’s sleep.

Plus, there’s a library of the American Film Institute’s top 100 films of all time.

Next page: What to see, what to do

Homophobic violence has escalated over the past year. In January, Sydney Lord Mayor Clover Moore complained twice in writing to NSW Police Minister David Campbell that police were not doing enough to stem the violence.

In a six week period alone there were 22 reports of anti-gay violence in the area, one of the world’s largest LGBT communities.

Last December a gay couple was attacked leaving one of the men with a shattered jaw and broken leg. There have been no arrests.

Now Moore is proposing declaring the Oxford Street area a “homophobia-free zone.”

“At this point, the ball is with council staff to develop a proposal that will come back to council over the next few months, but it could involve stickers, badges, posters and T-shirts,” city councilor Phillip Black told the Sydney Morning Herald.

“We have to create awareness that homophobia is not acceptable,” he said.

But the plan is not without detractors.

Some residents of the area say it does not go far enough. They want an increased police presence on the street.

City councilor Shayne Mallard calls the plan silly.

“The young men who come in from outer suburbs to drink alcohol and assault gay people are not going to be deterred by a sticker in a window,” he told The Australian newspaper.

“Because they already have homophobic and violent tendencies, it’s more likely to be a provocation,” he said.

Police say the containers originated in Thailand, and were seized in five Australian states.

In all, 150 containers were seized when customs agents became suspicious. Tests on the contests showed the containers held performance- and image-enhancing steroids, including testosterone and deca durabolin.

Police said it was doubtful the drugs were destined for gay communities, but rather for athletes.

The drugs require a ministerial permit for their use. 

“These substances have the potential to cause serious health risks,” the government said in a statement.

Police said they have search warrants to hunt for additional containers throughout the country and are working with Thai authorities to track the original source.

A number of arrests already have been made and police said Wednesday that more are expected.  If convicted, the penalty for smuggling drugs into Australia is five years in prison and a fine of up to $110,000.